Ham Ho spectacular- See the bottom!
The wooden boat gently floated along on the crystal-clear water, taking us into a deep green tunnel composed of trees. The chilly weather, together with bird songs, the scent of wildflowers and the sounds of the oars, took away all our cares.
Our slight anxiety about the dim tunnel exploded into amazement when the boat reached the lake. My friend shouted, “How wonderfull!” The sky was blue, the water was clear right to the bottom of the lake.
As a military base for many armies during wars over the past two centuries, Ham Ho, in the central province of Binh Dinh, is a series of springs, waterfalls, lakes, rivers and canals stretching nearly 2km along the Kut River.
The water lies between two rocky mountains coloured green with trees, some of which are enormous with along branches stretching out over the calm waters.
Gusts of wind spread the scent of wildflowers and whip up small waves that hit the sides of the boat-a strangely calming sensation.
Our boat landed at a point known as the Buffaloes’ Muddy Pond. Huge “buffaloes” of rock with backs smoothed by water flowing over and eroding them made an ideal place to have a rest after our long journey in the small boat. From the backs of the rocks we were able to admire beauty in every direction.
My friend pointed to a group of rocks in the distance. “They look like spears ready for battle”, my friend said. We walked over to Bong Trang (moon shadow) waterfall, which splashed into a pool, raising thick foam and forming a pretty rainbow.
Violets and orchids of many shades sprang from cracks in to rock and moved in the wind, making reflections in the glassy water. Smooth white boulders lay in the bright sun like giant pearls, sparkling.
The white beach glittered in the sun but its heat seemed to be tempered by the clear blue water. Schools of fish were swimming in the stream, fearlessly oblivious of the visitors who had set foot in Ham Ho for the first time.
Trekking along beside a spring whose water noisily poured down into the lake, our feet were covered by its delicious chill. We jumped into the water and then lay down on the rocky sides of the spring to let the water massage every part of our bodies.
Half-hidden in the forests of trees and rocks are stilt-houses where visitors can stop for a rest. Fish is the food speciality here; Ham Ho has a great variety. In the rainy season, fish from the Con River move upstream to lay their eggs. According to legend, fish would gather here every year to jump up the waterfall; those that succeeded would turn into dragons. That’s why it is known as Flying Fish Waterfall.
The old man who was our guide told us about another local speciality, a dish of red ants’ eggs.
As the sun went down, we set off in our wooden boat down the stream. The boatman told us a secret: “If you want to explore the beauty of Ham Ho, you should stay overnight, sleep in Eden Garden and walk on to Doc Waterfall and Trao Rock the next morning”. However, we decided to postpone that until our next visit. It would give us an excuse to return to Ham Ho.
Getting there: Travel 40km from Qui Nhon city to the town of Phong Phu in Tay Son district, Binh Dinh province. Head south-west for another 7km and you will arrive at Ham Ho.
